Into Victoria

My journey south takes me a little away from the coast until I reach the town of Orbost.  The road takes me through stands of Eucalypt forests, some small and stringy, some large and quite old.  I also see lots of dead trees but am not sure if the cause is from bush fires or the long drought that the south has experienced over the recent years.

At the moment there have been heavy falls in the centre of NSW, according to the news, as much as 300mm over the course of just 2 days.  Lots of flooding because of it, but the farmers are finally smiling again.  The area around Orbost is also cattle country, many cows feeding happily on the fresh green growth of grass.

From Orbost I drive back to the coast again, wanting to check "Lakes Entrance", a location that looks inviting on the map.  When I get there it looks as if half of Melbourne has come to spend the Christmas holidays there, in fact, it reminds me very much of the town of Foster / Tuncurry where I stayed on my way south from Queensland. Lots of shops lots of families, lots of young people enjoying being close to the water.

Lakes Entrance seen from above

I decide to check a few campgrounds, find them all full to the brim despite the  extravagant pricing and as a consequence decide to drive a little further to Bairnsdale, quite a large town with even an Aldi Store for my groceries.

There has been a cool breeze blowing from the ocean, the night there turns out quite cold, around 14 degrees, I wonder what they get in the winter...
I re-fuel in the morning as I want to take a look at the ski fields of Victoria, in particular Mount Hotham.  A good decision!  More about Mt. Hotham... A wonderful drive along great mountain scenes.  The road that has started like most other highways, gets to be tight turns and bends, constantly going uphill.

Rolling Foothills along my way

I drive through colourful valleys along the side of a mountain, gradually reaching ever higher ground providing outstanding views of the land below.  Orange posts mark the right edge of the highway and I can only imagine what the land looks like during the winter months, after all, the mountain is about 1860m above sea level.

 

Views from the top of Mount Hotham

The way down is even more winding than the road up, many sections very steep, advisory speed signs saying 30km/h as a safe speed.  Most of the way down I am in 3rd gear and in very steep sections I have to change down to second.  This is a 6-speed gearbox and its really important to keep the rig in low gear otherwise there will be brake burnout.

Arriving at the town of Bright I realise that this is yet another favourite destination for Melbournians.  It is also quite hot this side of the mountains, so after checking multiple campsites, finding all of them fully booked, I finally travel on to the small town of Myrtleford where I stop for a powered site so I can use my aircon to keep me cool in this heat, the temperature now in the high 30s.

Down the South Coast from Sydney

Yes, I know that its about time I say something about my trip again, so here I go:

Sydney brought a few up and downs, some great, others as yet undecided developments.  My medical check turned out ok and am now planning to return to Sydney early March for a small operation when the weather will be a bit cooler.  In the meantime its "on the road again" for me.

I leave Sydney on Boxing Day (26 December) and follow the coastline south.  When I leave its heavily overcast and raining most of the way, the forecast has also promised some more of the same for the Sydney area.  Its also quite cool but ok for driving.  Traffic, initially very light gets heavier as I get further south, about 20km north of the town of Berry it is bumper-to-bumper and crawling pace.

I pull out in Berry and drive down to the Sports Ground where I will spend a night under drizzling skies.  It continues most of the night and I am happy to report that I had a really good night's sleep.

Rolling Hills with Milk Cows

There is a light drizzle of rain when I leave but slowly the sky brightens with bits of blue visible.  Quite amazing how different a landscape starts to look when there is more light, the dark cover of clouds slowly giving way to a more favourable outlook.  Its rolling hills all the way, green pastures, lots of milk producing cows for the cheese industry in these parts. 

Part of the waterfront at Narooma

A few kilometres just north of Narooma I find a great rest area a little away from the Princes Highway where I will spend yet another night.  I meet four young French people, Anna & Benjamin and Licia & Olivier, traveling in two Campervans, now on their way north to get a look at the New Years Celebrations with fireworks in Sydney.  I very much enjoyed talking with them about their traveling plans and it looks that we may meet up again when I get to Tasmania.

Even as I thought I had escaped the rainy weather, as it gets dark, rain sets in again.  Just as well I don't need to be outside, so instead I solve another Sudoku puzzle, read and listen to nice music.  An early night.

One of the beaches at Eden

Mineral deposits with black sand-like appearance.

By morning the rain has stopped, again, as I drive south it begins to clear to mostly blue sky.  Again I see rolling hills of green pasture, looking ever so much nicer under sunlight.  At Pambula I re-fuel and drive on to Eden where I stop for the day.

Port Stephens Area

As I travel further south the sky is turning into ever darker shades of grey with a very low cloud base.  The highway is wet, my rear window getting dirtier by the minute due to the airflow vortex at the back of my vehicle.  When I turn toward the coast again the rain eases and finally stops while I check out a number of possible campgrounds, finally stopping at Soldiers Point for the night.  Soon the rain sets in again while I cook a hot Lamb Curry and solve a few Sudoku Puzzles, an actiity I have recently been introduced to, one that I really love, having become 'addicted' in a way...

The following morning there is still a drizzle, so I look for a possible alternative location on my maps, decide to retrace my steps and to drive around the bay of Port Stephens.  To get there I need to drive right around the bay, a distance according to my GPS, about 85km.  When I get back to the highway, driving north again, the rain increases but as I turn toward the coast again, skies start to clear, bits of blue sky that increase in size the closer I get to 'Hawks Nest'.  I take this as a good omen, check into the caravan park by the beach and 'erect' my home-on-wheels.

Rain clouds threatening Hawks Nest

Great surf, heavy clouds on the other side of the Bay.

Wind-swept white sand dunes at Hawks Nest

Hawks Nest has beautiful beaches with white sand on one side and a lake on the opposite side.  Very nice, I must say, with a great surf running, very popular with many people on surfboards out on the water.

Eastcoast of New South Wales

Driving south following the coastline (more or less) reveals a land that is green once again, after all the heavy rainfalls over the last few weeks everything looks almost like a european landscape, cattle grazing in the midst of fresh grass as far as I can see.

Quite a few of the low-lying areas are still covered in water, the rivers on my way, all full to the top, flowing majestically through this seemingly totally flat country.

The weatherman is reporting extreme heat inland so the decision to come and follow the coast has been a good one, a constant cool breeze from the ocean sure keeps the temperature down to a level of comfort.  

The heavy dowpour I experienced while I stopped at Lake Moogerah has certainly helped to clean the roof of my Motorhome.  Yes, the new Telescopic ladder I bought has been used for just that, namely the inspection of my Solar Panels on the roof, noticing that they did not require any cleaning, the heavy rain had certainly removed all traces of bull dust also going by the name of "Pillbara Pink" by the locals.

The Pacific Highway turns a little away from the coast after I leave Evans Head, the next larger Town on the road is Grafton, where I stop briefly to buy groceries at Aldi, then follow the highway further south, again turning toward the ocean where I put in my next stop-over at "Red Rock" for the night.

Coastline near Red Rock

The following morning I continue south, drive through Coffs Harbour, then take the turn-off to Sawtell where I check into the caravan park.  I take out my bike and go for a cruise, discovering a cute mainstreet with a number of shops and restaurants with tables out on the foot path.

The following day takes me only a short distance further south, past Nambucca Heads, Macksville until the turn-off to Grassy Head, where I find a quaint caravan park, separated from the beach by an overgrown sand dune, I can hear the waves but am sheltered from the strong winds.  I like it so much, I spend 3 days and nights.  There is also a bit of cooking to catch up on so my meat will not go off in the fridge.

Grassy Head Camping

When I leave again, I follow the highway south to Kew, where I turn toward the ocean again and find a nice spot to stay, up high looking across the beach and the ocean.  Very nice with a great beach, its called "Bonny Hills".

 Volcanic rocks at Bonny Hills Beach

 

 

Interesting rocks with colourful lichen growing probable high mineral content.

The following morning I continue south to Tuncurry / Forster where I spend another 3 nights. [more info on The Great Lakes area]

Bangalow

I had spoken on the phone with my once co-traveler, Bronny, who has a house at Bangalow and she invited me to come and catch up on the latest, happy for me to leave my Motorhome in her driveway and plug into her power.

My "Home" in Bronny's driveway

View across Bangalow

Bangalow, just west of Byron Bay, away from the coast, is not very far from Burleigh Heads so I drive south to take another look at Bangalow which I had visited last year in June for the first time.

The township is located in a valley with hills rising either side, Bronny's house high on the side of a hill, overlooking the valley.  Subtropical, lush and green, the town itself clean and sparkling, emanating good positive energy.

Orchids in Bronny's garden

A great town full of friendly people, excellent restaurants and plenty of parking.  I liked it so much, I decided to stay 3 nights, also cooking a couple of meals to share with my host.  It was good to catch up as we had not seen each other since July when she drove south along the westcoast of Western Australia and finally across the Nullarbor and back home to Bangalow.  She has to go into Hospital for a minor op, but is cheerful and happy as always.

Naturally, I take a drive to Byron Bay, up to the Lighthouse on the most easterly point in Australia. [More about Byron Bay]

Byron Bay Lighthouse

Lake Ainsworth, just north of Lennox Head

Today I drive south yet again, through Lennox Heads, Lake Ainsworth with its water stained tea-coloured by tannin from teatrees, then on to Ballina, finally stopping for the night at Evans Head.  On the beach once again with a cool breeze but blue sky.  I have checked a couple of campgrounds on my way south this morning, discovering nice places for future reference.

The way to Burleigh Heads

I leave Hervey Bay to come further south to Maroochydore, also on the coast, the Caravan Park there looks ok from the brochure as well.  My new friends from Munich. Karin and Wiggerl are taking a different route south but intend to catch up at Maroochydore.  Lots of traffic all the way, an indication that I am nearing a larger city, Brisbane, still more than 100km south from where I want to go.

The weather Bureau has forecast rain for the coastal area and in-land south of Brisbane, so I hope things will clear up by the time I get to Brisbane.  The Caravan Park turns out ok too and after Karin and Wiggerl arrive, we decide to spend 2 nights and I invite them over for a feed, them supplying the "Red" to go with it.  We enjoy each other's company sitting under my awning, having dinner, moving inside only after the bities start to become a nuisance.  Real nice, for a change to be conversing in Bavarian, even though it does seem to come naturally.

When we leave Maroochydore, Karin and Wiggerl head for Bribie Island, a little further to the south, but I have an appointment in Brisbane to buy a Telescopic Ladder that will allow me to climb onto my roof anytime I need to, to clean up my Solar Panels etc.  By the time I leave Brisbane its about midday and I drive toward Beaudesert through Ipswich.  Going south west the skies are getting darker, soon rain setting in.  I arrive at Darlington, hoping to meet again with a friend Robbo from my first visit there, back in April.  As it turns out, Robbo is no longer with us, having died only 2 weeks ago, suffering from cancer.  All my blessings to him in his next life.

The Gumtree behind my van has shed a lot of bark overnight

For that reason I decide not to stay at Darlington but drive on to Moogerah Lake, hoping the rain will let up.  It does briefly, just enough time for me to put my vehicle into the allocated spot.  Its already dark and soon the rain sets in again.  After raining most of the night I find myself surrounded by muddy and slippery grass, still dark and wet outside.  I decide to leave and drive back to the coast with the hope that the sun will make an appearance again.  Good decision, slowly the sky brightens as I drive toward the coast and by the time I arrive at Burleigh Heads its bright and sunny again, good enough to do my washing as well.

Surfers Paradise from Burleigh Heads

Looking toward Tweed Head

When I walk along the beach, looking north I can see Surfers Paradise, about 15km up the coast.  You could be forgiven to think that you might be looking at Manhattan, what with all the Skyscrapers lining the coastline.  Overdeveloped, yet still popular with many visitors each year.  

Many Hexagon shaped rocks litter the landscape

Another view from the park to Tweed Head

I also take a long walk through the rainforest just to the south and discover interesting rock formations as well as some wildlife along the way.

Basking next to the walkway

Thats why its called "Strangler Fig"

Fraser Island Day Trip

I have booked myself in for a day trip to Fraser Island.  The bus arrives right on time at 7.20 am as arranged to pick us (myself and a couple from Munich whom I met the evening before plus a few others I do not know to be part of this motly crew).

After several pickups the bus is full and we proceed to the ferry terminal where we arrive about an hour later.  After the ferry has docked all the vehicles that are coming to the island have driven onto the ferry, we are allowed on board as well.  The trip across takes about half an hour and when we arrive our 4-wheel drive bus is already waiting to take us on board.  The driver and tour guide promises a rough ride across the island.  He was not exaggerating, part of the trip felt a lot like being on a small craft riding a rough sea.  What passes for roads on the island are only sand tracks, sometimes with quite deep sand ruts that need to be navigated at speed, sometimes the track is badly corroded, shaking the vehicle violently from side to side, all good fun actually but the going is quite slow in places.

Needless to say, we encounter several people (inexperienced on such terrain) that have gotten stuck, so our driver has to get out and show them how to get out of those sand bogs.  Naturally, our driver knows all roads like the back of his hand, knows just where to stop, where to travel at speed, where to go slow.

 Small birds by the creek on Fraser Island

After spending time in the rain forest we go for a long drive along the beach.  Several kilometres up the beach we can see two single engine aircraft that offer flights across the island, taking off from the beach.

Coming in for a landing on the beach

Naturally, I also climb on board for a short flight, always great to view the landscape underneath from a greater altitude.  The pilot drops us at the next scheduled stopping point of the bus next to a freshwater creek flowing down toward the beach.

Just after the flight across the island

We the visit the "Coloured Sands" and what is left of the "Maheno Wreck", a ship that has been washed up on the beach in 1935.  Not that much left of it either, as most of what was there has slowly rusted away over the years since.

 

What's left of the "Maheno" today

Water flowing from the island to the shore contains Tannin, a tea-colourd that has created interesting shapes of stain in the sand, quite interesting to look at.

Tea-coloured stains on the beach

When we turn around to drive back for lunch, the driver stops because we have a flat tyre on the front right.  Another bus arrives and together with the other driver the tyre is changed so we can continue our journey toward a (now late) lunch.

After lunch we drive to Lake Mack Kenzie for a one hour stop and a swim in its crystal clear water.  Very nice indeed.

Bundaberg and surrounds

The drive south from 1770 goes along a back road, mostly through scrub country and grassland with grazing cattle from time to time. I am thinking about the town of Bundaberg with its distilleries, well known around the country for its locally produced Rum, usually referred to as "Bundy".

Sunset on the Bundaberg Coast

So I keep looking for sugar cane fields but am surprised that the first signs of that crop are actually only coming into view some 15km north of the town. Once I am in the flat country around Bundaberg, I am surrounded by fields of cane, all of them with new growth for the next harvest.
[more on Bundaberg]
I arrive at Burnett Heads to the north of the city, after a brief misdirection from my GPS, taking me to the river without a bridge, only a ferry operated by the sugar mill in evidence which does not cater to the general public. I had to backtrack, cross the river and then finally get to Burnett Heads close to the water yet again.

The nights are nice and cool so I am getting a good sleep on a very quiet campground. I have also cooked a VERY HOT Lamb Curry that has turned into a real ring burner, but lots of cucumber Raita make it all bearable. Tomorrow I will pickup my mail, then on to Hervey Bay and a planned visit to Fraser Island.
[more about Fraser Island]

Seventeen Seventy

The Town of 1770. An interesting name wouldn't you say? But, before I get there, an update on my way further south. From the map I had picked two likely places to stay, the most likely one at Tannum Sands, just south of Gladstone, an industrial town with a huge Aluminium smelter, which I passed by. Tannum Sands is right on the coast, a campground, about one block from the water is expensive and also features a large display of Sandfly Repellant and looking at a couple walking out I can see they have been bitten. Anyway, I have had my share of Sandfly bites when I stayed on the beach north of Townsville so decided to give that place a miss.

Another listed site by the river turns out to be closed down so I decide to go a bit further south on the highway before turning toward the coast again to visit the town of 1770. A great place, right on the beach again, lots of people, many from Bundaberg who know this spot as a local get-away.


Looking out my window at 1770

Lieutenant James Cook, on Wednesday 14th May 1770 went ashore near Round Hill Head with a party of men in order to examine the country, accompanied by Joseph Banks and Dr Solander. Cook's ship, The Endeavour, anchored about 2 miles off shore.


Round Hill Head

This was Cook's second landing in Australia and his first in Queensland, hence the Seventeen Seventy being referred to as The Birthplace of Queensland. Cook and his party landed within the south point of the bay where they found a channel leading into a large lagoon. "...In this place there is room for a few ships to ly in great security, and a small stream of fresh water..."


Cook's Ship "The Endeavour"

Upon the shore they saw a species of Bustard, one of which was shot. It was like a large turkey and weighed seventeen and a half pounds. It was the best bird they had eaten since leaving England and in honour of it they called the inlet "Bustard Bay".

NB: This information has been kindly supplied by the Manager Chris of this camp ground [more]

Keppel Island

Island tours from Yeppoon are not operating Mondays, so the best opportunity to make the trip across to the island was today. The Catameran leaves at 10.30 for the island and returns at 2.00pm.

There is quite a swell on the way out which results in a choppy ride which was fun, much like riding a roller coaster. The ocean shades of turquoise, the beaches when we arrive, mostly white sand, bright with the sun reflecting. A beautiful place without a doubt.


Keppel Island Beach simply beautiful
The ride in the glass bottom boat across a field of Coral was interesting but also got to be monotonous with no variety of sea creatures other than very small coral fish, the colours of the coral rather dull in shades of green.

When I return to the beach I take a stroll across the beachfront and discover that the once booming tourist facilities have been closed down, the whole complex fenced off with chain link fence, obviously pending further development. For now a rather sad sight I had not expected. Apart from the ever present sea birds the only other wildlife a saw were two fair-sized black snakes disappearing into the woods just in front of me. The place once you get away from the beach has a desolate, uncared for ambience. There is only one shop open that sells the typical tourist gear, like T-shirts, Post cards and other nick nacks for visitors - no customers.

South from Airlie Beach

I leave my campsite at Cannonvale Campground, take yet another stroll through Airlie among Backpackers before a quick shopping trip at the new Shopping Plaza at Cannonvale. I continue my journey along the coast, finally stopping for the night at a place called Clairview which looks lovely when I arrive, turquoise waters lapping the beach right outside my rear window.

After some food for a late lunch, two Sudoku Puzzles and a bit of a read, I discover that the tide has receded, revealing mudflats and black rocks that have been hidden when I arrived.

In the morning I decide to drive further south toward Rockhampton and after consulting my maps, Yeppoon looks like the place to stay, right on the coast yet again. After communicating with Alison who has lived up here for quite some time, she also confirms this place to be, in her words, "..real nice..".
[More info]

I book myself in at the local council campground, again right on the beach, with lovely views out of my rear window and no mudflats or rocks at low tide! I really like the place and prescribe for myself a week's holiday.

Sunrise on Yeppoon Beach

I do notice a strong 'marine' smell coming off the ocean, also notice yellow foam that has settled on the sand after the tide recedes. I am told this is because the corals out on the Reef are emitting spores to reproduce, an event that occurs only once a year. Interesting!

Yellow foam left by Coral Spores in the water

Going south toward Townsville

My next stop-over is Mission Beach [check it out] a wonderful and spacious Beach with views across the waters to Dunk Island, yet another Holiday Resort amid the blue waters of The Great Barrier Reef. [more]

My campground is located right by the beach. I book for 3 nights enjoying a most relaxing stay. From Mission Beach I drive south, first stop at Ingham for some groceries and a haircut then a bit further south to another campsite at Balgal Beach, a nice free camping spot, again right on the water. I spend a great day walking the beach and later spend "Happy Hour" in the company of fellow travelers, enjoying the cool breeze by the ocean. It turns out that the sandflies are ferocious despite the liberal application of supposed repellents. ( I guess, no-one told the sand flies it was a repellent.) I ended up with dozens of bites all over, itchy as old Hell too.

I leave to drive to Townsville, [more] only about 40km further to the South where I am staying for 2 nights, also visit Magnetic Island, just off the coast.
[more about Magnetic Island]



The 'Locals' are pretty friendly too and enjoy eating the offered apple from my hand

After my visit to Magnetic Island which included a short bus tour to Roma Beach the Ferry takes me back to Townsville. I leave the following morning to head south to Airlie Beach, yet another poular Tourist destination [more on Airlie Beach] where I have spent a month twenty years ago sailing the Whitsunday Passage with my friends Brian and Sherry.

The town itself has seen major development, a far cry from the sleepy village of yesteryear, even Mac Donalds have an outlet on the main street...

The "Wet Tropics", Rainforest and Beaches

Yes, I know, I should be feeling rather guilty having neglected the blog for such a long time. I admit that I feel guilty indeed, so today I am going to elaborate a little about this part of Australia.




A map of the Cairns area

The city of Cairns [Click here] is the obvious business centre in this part of Australia, spread out over a fairly large area, modern roads and a number of shopping malls at various locations. Apart from its location between the sea and the Table lands that rise to over 800m above sea level it looks like a fast growing modern metropolis.


The local "Swimming hole" at the Esplanade at Cairns

What is usually forgotten by visitors to the idyllic part of the world, is the fact that Northern Queensland is also home to the giant Saltwater Crocodiles that are equally at home in Saltwater as in Freshwater, their preferred habitat being rivers flowing into the ocean.

As a consequence swimming in the ocean can be dangerous, but if you think that to be the only threat, think again. From about November to May small stingers inhabit the warm waters, to name just two, one is the so called "Box Jellyfish" the other "Irikandji", another small jellyfish, both able to inflict stings to the skin that look like burns and cause such pain that people have died, their body unable to cope with such intense pain. [more info] All beaches usually have bottles of vinegar deposited at many different locations, as a liberal dousing with vinegar seems to help in the short term. Medical treatment and injection of anti venom is definitely required and necessary. Many of the popular beaches also have so called "Stinger Nets" that are usually setup during the stinger season. No, they do not guarantee that the water will be free of stingers but they reduce the likelyhood of their presence significantly.

The whole area by the highway is covered in sugar cane as far as I can see, the harvest in full swing with harvesting machines at work, filling trailers that take the harvest to waiting rail carriages to be taken to the many sugarmills on countless narrow gauge railroads which seem to criss-cross the countryside wherever I drive.

With temperatures constantly in the 30s all vegetation grows at an amazing rate and in great abundance in the rain forest itself.

From Cairns I take the Skyrail, [more about Skyrail] a gondola that rides like a ski lift over the top of the rain forest in 3 sections, ending at the town of Kuranda [more about Kuranda] in the Table lands with a nice market stalls and lots of shops and eating places catering to the Tourist trade.


Part of a display of fired glass at Kuranda Markets


The way back into Cairns is via an old railway that zig-zags its way back into the low-lands below. Quite an experience to also view Barron Falls which must be in gigantic display during the wet season.[more about Kuranda Scenic Railway]

The road north from Cairns follows the coastline most of the time but veers a little away from the ocean before I need to turn toward the ocean again to go into Port Douglas, a well known destination for people from Sydney or Melbourne who may just fly up for a long weekend. Lots of shops and Resorts. The campground crowded with small allocated lots for each vehicle, but, not too far from the beach and in walking distance to Restaurants in the evening.

The following morning I am on the road north again to go to Cape Tribulation where I get a lovely spot for my motorhome in the shade of some big trees. Just 50m to the beachfront to laze the day away doing lots of Sudoku games in the shade.

The next morning I am off to "Jungle Surfing" [more about Jungle Surfing] on steel cables connecting a number of tall tree giants. It turns out a lot of fun, if a bit too short.




Fellow Traveler 'surfing' the Rain Forest

The following morning I head south again along the coast where I stop at Ellis Beach to relax for another two days before driving on to Kuranda again, pick up two bits I forgot to buy when I came up with Skyrail, then on to Lake Tinaroo, also in the Tablelands for another lovely cool night.

The following morning I follow the highway back through Millaa Millaa and also visit some of the lovely waterfalls in the area.

One of the many Waterfalls near Millaa Millaa

Then its back to the coast, through the town of Innisfail, then to the little hide-away of Etty Bay where I spend three nights by the beach, a lone Cassowary criss crossing the campground, raiding my neighbor's banana supply. These large birds weigh about 60kg, can be aggressive and with its sharp claws quite dangerous. I stay out of its way, a large lizzard also zig-zagging its way past my motorhome, looking for scraps.