Wednesday 10 September 2008

More about Kalbarri 10/09/08

Two days at Galena Bridge is enough, so this morning I am travelling on to Kalbarri, home of the Pelican Feeding Event that takes place each morning at 8.45. Once I am on the highway, the land either side of the road is used by Agriculure, growing, what looks like wheat, now about 30cm high, probably due to the rain that has gone down here recently.

15km down the road is the turn-off to Kalbarri and surrounds. Still fields of wheat until I enter the Kalbarri National Park. Scrub now on both sides, but on my left the signs of bush fires that have burnt out the undergrowth some time ago. Wildflowers are beginning to blossom but are not in full bloom yet. I arrive at Kalbarri about 11.00 am, re-fuel, get some groceries at the local IGA and the find a very nice camp spot along the Murchison River in one of the trailer parks.

View from my van onto the Murchison River, Kalbarri

Kalbarri has a long history of wrecks of ships that have come to grieve along its rugged shore line, first the Dutch in 1629 by Commander Pelsaert and again in 1696 by the Dutch navigator, Willem de Vlaming in search of water. Again, in 1712 the Dutch East India Company ship 'Zuytdorp' was wrecked near Kalbarri. The fate of any survivers is unknown.

There are many hiking trails and gorges in the vicinity which I am planning to explore over the next few days.

I had a look this morning (10 Sept.) to see the Pelican feeding, maybe about 50 tourists but only 3 Pelicans turned up, cameras clicking all around but decided it all looked a bit too stage-managed for me, so will show some pictures of the birds taken at Monkey Mia instead.

Coming in for a feed

Ever the opportunists when someone is cleaning fish

A remarkable bird is the Pelican, his beak can hold more than his belly can...


The road into the gorges, I am told, is pretty bad so I won't attempt a self-drive. Instead will book myself in for a half day tour on Friday morning, day after tomorrow. It’s a nice town, Kalbarri, everything important within easy walking distance, Post Office, shops, liquor store and also a very small Westpac Bank, about the width of two doors, staffed by one lady.

The Murchison River flows into the Indian Ocean in this town and there is a long sandbar about 2/3 the width of the ocean front, so only about 1/3 provides access from the harbour to the ocean. Yes, there are channel markers in the water, indicating where to navigate across the reef that sits squarely across the entrance. There are waves breaking across this reef a bit further out on the seaward side and I can well believe that this is one of the most treacherous harbours in all of Australia. (Refer above to some of the (historical) ship wrecks along this coast).

The river is also popular with the fishing fraternity, Aluminium dinghies heading up-river every day in order to catch that night's dinner. Most of them returning in the afternoons with a few fish. Bon appetit!

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