Surrounds of Kununurra and on to Halls Creek

Can you believe it? I got up at 6 this morning. Looks like the holidaying is getting to me. I did want an early start, left the campsite just after 7 am, returned my passkey at reception and go to have a closer look at the agriculture around this area.

With the construction of the Ord River Dam that holds back lots of water from the wet-season, forming Argyle Lake. Kununurra supports large agriculture, mostly fruit growers, producing fruit like Mangoes, Citrus, Papaya, Melons all of it growing in large irrigated fields. The soil looks dark and healthy.


Roads into the orchards at Kununurra


Quite surprising to see so much greenery in what appears to be an arrid landscape, naturally, all due to the irrigation system that has been put in place. There are many water channels that supply all the water needed to grow a large variety of fruit that gets shipped by road and rail to the large cities in the south of the country.


I travel down some back roads, through and around orchards, my vehicle being the only one anywhere. By the side of the road in between fruit orchards, a farmer has put up a stall as self service, a box you put your money into in exchange for a (very) large bag of Grape fruit, the ones with pink flesh. Delicious, I can honestly say, the best Grape fruit I have EVER eaten. Juicy and sweet, yes, not like those sour ones the big stores made us get used to back in the Big Smoke.

I get back onto Ivanhoe road, turn left to continue my exploration. Finally, the road ends at a river crossing, a concrete road has been built across the river, with concrete pillars on the downstream side of the ford, indicating the depth, today about 30cm. I am not at all sure if my van would be ok to cross.

Ivanhoe Crossing built in 1953


I take a few pictures with a 4-wheel-drive coming across to my side, then decide to turn around to check out some more fields.

Finally, I arrive back at the town centre and buy some fresh bread and some yoghurt for tomorrows breakfast. I hit the road towards Wyndham as I want to check if I can drive the Gibb River Road, which is dirt, but I'm told it is driveable. After about half an hour's drive I pass the turn-off that leads to Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing. Another turn-off 7 km ahead is the Gibb River Road. Yes, it is dirt but appears driveable - at first - about 2km in the corrugations start, shaking the living daylight out of my van and out of me (back teeth rattling and all…). I continue on for another 4 or 5km and decide, that no matter how fabulous the scenery should be, I am not prepared to pay the price of a bone-jarring trip. I pull off the road and turn around in a cloud of dust. I turn right on the highway, retract my path and turn right to go on toward Halls Creek.

The scenery is much varied as I drive along, a range of red-earth hills on either side, somewhat in the distance. These diminish in size as I drive further south-east, they have changed from red escarpments to gentler hills, coming ever closer. Finally, the road starts to rise, taking me onto the high country. Looking at my GPS I learn that I am now at more than 400m above sea level. It also feels just a touch cooler.

Wide open views in the higher regions...


Red rocks in other places along the road

Still the odd Boab, but I also notice lots of Termite mounds again, this time climbing the hillsides as well. In the past I have only ever seen them in flat terrain. The campsite I am looking for comes up. Quite nice actually, lots of shady trees but right next to the highway. As I, like most people I know, want to sleep during the night, without constant noisy interruptions by road trains thundering past, give that one a miss. Its only just after 1.00pm by now and I decide to drive on to Halls Creek, 97 km ahead. I arrive there at 2.30pm, find a camping facility and stop for the day.